The Rolex Explorer I is probably the most iconic and prototypical sports watch out there. Whether you prefer the pre-white-gold-marker 1016 or the current 39mm Chromalight iteration, there's no denying its simple yet effective, elegant yet robust design. The 'Explorer' moniker adds to its appeal by endowing it with a flair of adventure -- and not a fictional one at that, as we all well know its connection to Sir Hilary's 1953 Everest climb.
Of course, Rolex was not the only watchmaker to supply watches for expeditions (even Sir Hilary had a Smiths on him as well) but it was the one who knew how to market their exploits.
For myself, the Explorer I is one of my favorite (if not downright favorite) watches. However, I cannot at the moment afford one, and what's more, I am guilty of liking (and using!) the date function on a watch. I would never suggest putting a date on the Explorer as it would ruin, well, everything. So, inspired by JakeJD's search for the perfect daily wearer I set out to find myself that 'other' Explorer.
My requirements were slightly less strict than Jake's, but nonetheless the watch had to have a minimum of 100m WR, decent lume (doesn't have to be Seiko-level), good legibility and most of all, under 40mm in diameter. Like the explorer, it had to be versatile enough to withstand most daily activities, formal or otherwise, as well as be a faithful companion while sailing, hiking or just plain beach lounging. Last but not least, my budget was also a little more restrained. Long story short, it looked like the only watch that fit the bill would be the Longines Conquest 39mm.
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Photo credit: Longines
The art-deco inspired crown guards are a bit polarizing, and I wasn't sure how it would turn out in real life, as it is near impossible to find good pictures of this watch that aren't renders.
Once I got it, however, I liked it a lot, and over time, I grew to love it. It sits very comfortably on the wrist, and despite its 39mm wears rather large -- in fact, it's hard to image I ever wore larger watches, at this seems like the absolute maximum I would now wear. The watch itself looks and feels very solid, the bracelet is sturdy yet comfortable. The high polish is exquisite, the satin brushed lugs even more so. I actually really like the funky crown guards. While somewhat reminiscent of some IWC Ingenieur models, I find it gives the watch a very unique look.
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Photo: Longines
Some may say the current Longines Conquest is just another generic ETA 2824 black-dial, three-hand Exploreresque design offered by a brand that is but a shadow of its former self since the Swatch Group swallowed it whole; that it is not a WIS-brand and too popular with the general population (or watch idiots, sans savant). While I can understand this -- and I must admit I shared this thought for a while -- I do no longer subscribe to that view. Yes, Longines are no longer a manufacture, and yes, Swatch placed them in a bracket that perhaps does not befit their heritage, but as far as I'm concerned, they release amazingly built watches (and, thanks to their position in the Group, at prices that may feel at home in F71).
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What's more, and indeed, more to the point of this story, the Conquest comes with more heritage than you would probably expect. Indeed, Longines has long been associated with sports and outdoor activities -- Olympic, equestrian, skiing and more recently, tennis. And there's more.
Back in 1899 (Longines existed already almost 70 years by that time!) it supplied timekeepers for the Arctic expedition led by Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy. But the event they could have probably milked as much as Rolex did Sir Hilary's climb came in 1947 - six years before the event that would propel the Explorer to stardorm.
Starting with 1947, the Expeditions Polaires Francaises, founded and led by scientist and polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor, several research expeditions were made to the Arctic (Greenland) and the Antarctic (Terre Adelie). For these expeditions, Longines provided ship chronometers and other timing devices, but most importantly to us WIS, it supplied the team with a specially designed wristwatch:
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Photo found with Google Images, source unknown
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Photo courtesy of Longines
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Photo courtesy of unmondedavontures.fr
This watch was based on Longines' sports watches of the time, which themselves were based on military models they had produced during the war. Subtle differences included a central seconds hand (by modifying their 12.68Z movement to allow for a central seconds hand, they called this version 12.68N) and extra shock protection (circled in red):
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The photo above is of my 1950s Longines sportswatch that featured the exact same case and hands as the Arctic Explorer, except that it's a 10.68Z movement (sub seconds), but it has the same shock protection modification as the Arctic Explorers did.
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Another important feature of the watches supplied for the Arctic expedition was the screw-down case back. Most likely a six notch ("sei tacche", as they are known in Italian) case back, these evolved from Longines' three-notch ("tre tacche") design that they introduced in their WWII military watches, to achieve increased water resistance.
Fast forward to 1954, the next step in the evolution of Longines dressy sports watches.
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1954 ad courtesy of Longines
The first line of Longines watches was born: the Longines Conquest. Retaining the screw down back and waterproof case design, but updating the dial, lugs, movement (automatic), materials and overall aesthetics, the Conquest was one of the most beautifully designed watches (in my opinion). It came in steel, two tone or gold and with either black or (white) champagne dials, with leather strap or steel bracelet, like this wonderful example here:
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Photo by vintagelongines on Instagram
Vintage specimens of this stunning piece can be found online for reasonably affordable prices (for now) in various conditions. Longines released a re-issue recently that retains not only the design, but also the size (their heritage re-issues are some of the best and most faithful out there, in my view). Of course, at the heart of the re-issues beats a L.633 caliber, which is "just" an ETA 2824, instead of the in-house 19AS movements that typically graced the original models.
Fast forward again, and the current sports version (not the re-issue) of the Conquest looks but little like its predecessors. What it has retained, however, is its versatility, durability and spirit of the original. The case of the 39mm conquest is identical to the Hydroconquest, but without diver's bezel. This means you get all the shock protection and 300m WR of a diver but in a more neutral package that could, in this day and age, do dressy in most situations as well. It is the most legible dial I have ever had, with the rhodium plated hands reflecting even the lowest amount of light, so that even if it wouldn't have had lume, it would have probably been legible in most situations.
Would Longines have made this watch if it hadn't become part of the Swatch Group? Probably not, but I think the question should rather be, would Longines have still made watches at all if it hadn't become part of Mr. Hayek's cartel?
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The watch is not really photogenic, it appears much more plump than it really is. Moreover, its mirror polished surfaces make the task of capturing this cool time piece even harder.
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I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you're looking for a do-everything watch in the spirit of the Explorers (Rolex or otherwise) that doesn't require an arm nor a leg to acquire (well, perhaps at least one wrist) and is ready to go on any sort of adventure with you - even if that adventure is your desk, the Longines Conquest automatic 39mm may just be the ticket. It sure is mine, and while I will be on the lookout to pick up an original 1950s Conquest some day, this modern descendant will not leave my collection any time soon.
If you came this far, thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the story.
More about the arctic expedition watches here and here
P.S. found this picture of Paul-Emile Victor from 1990, it appears he's wearing a datejust here (if I'm not mistaken):
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Photo by Anne de Henning
Of course, Rolex was not the only watchmaker to supply watches for expeditions (even Sir Hilary had a Smiths on him as well) but it was the one who knew how to market their exploits.
For myself, the Explorer I is one of my favorite (if not downright favorite) watches. However, I cannot at the moment afford one, and what's more, I am guilty of liking (and using!) the date function on a watch. I would never suggest putting a date on the Explorer as it would ruin, well, everything. So, inspired by JakeJD's search for the perfect daily wearer I set out to find myself that 'other' Explorer.
My requirements were slightly less strict than Jake's, but nonetheless the watch had to have a minimum of 100m WR, decent lume (doesn't have to be Seiko-level), good legibility and most of all, under 40mm in diameter. Like the explorer, it had to be versatile enough to withstand most daily activities, formal or otherwise, as well as be a faithful companion while sailing, hiking or just plain beach lounging. Last but not least, my budget was also a little more restrained. Long story short, it looked like the only watch that fit the bill would be the Longines Conquest 39mm.
Photo credit: Longines
The art-deco inspired crown guards are a bit polarizing, and I wasn't sure how it would turn out in real life, as it is near impossible to find good pictures of this watch that aren't renders.
Once I got it, however, I liked it a lot, and over time, I grew to love it. It sits very comfortably on the wrist, and despite its 39mm wears rather large -- in fact, it's hard to image I ever wore larger watches, at this seems like the absolute maximum I would now wear. The watch itself looks and feels very solid, the bracelet is sturdy yet comfortable. The high polish is exquisite, the satin brushed lugs even more so. I actually really like the funky crown guards. While somewhat reminiscent of some IWC Ingenieur models, I find it gives the watch a very unique look.
Photo: Longines
Some may say the current Longines Conquest is just another generic ETA 2824 black-dial, three-hand Exploreresque design offered by a brand that is but a shadow of its former self since the Swatch Group swallowed it whole; that it is not a WIS-brand and too popular with the general population (or watch idiots, sans savant). While I can understand this -- and I must admit I shared this thought for a while -- I do no longer subscribe to that view. Yes, Longines are no longer a manufacture, and yes, Swatch placed them in a bracket that perhaps does not befit their heritage, but as far as I'm concerned, they release amazingly built watches (and, thanks to their position in the Group, at prices that may feel at home in F71).
What's more, and indeed, more to the point of this story, the Conquest comes with more heritage than you would probably expect. Indeed, Longines has long been associated with sports and outdoor activities -- Olympic, equestrian, skiing and more recently, tennis. And there's more.
Back in 1899 (Longines existed already almost 70 years by that time!) it supplied timekeepers for the Arctic expedition led by Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy. But the event they could have probably milked as much as Rolex did Sir Hilary's climb came in 1947 - six years before the event that would propel the Explorer to stardorm.
Starting with 1947, the Expeditions Polaires Francaises, founded and led by scientist and polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor, several research expeditions were made to the Arctic (Greenland) and the Antarctic (Terre Adelie). For these expeditions, Longines provided ship chronometers and other timing devices, but most importantly to us WIS, it supplied the team with a specially designed wristwatch:
Photo found with Google Images, source unknown
Photo courtesy of Longines
Photo courtesy of unmondedavontures.fr
This watch was based on Longines' sports watches of the time, which themselves were based on military models they had produced during the war. Subtle differences included a central seconds hand (by modifying their 12.68Z movement to allow for a central seconds hand, they called this version 12.68N) and extra shock protection (circled in red):
The photo above is of my 1950s Longines sportswatch that featured the exact same case and hands as the Arctic Explorer, except that it's a 10.68Z movement (sub seconds), but it has the same shock protection modification as the Arctic Explorers did.
Another important feature of the watches supplied for the Arctic expedition was the screw-down case back. Most likely a six notch ("sei tacche", as they are known in Italian) case back, these evolved from Longines' three-notch ("tre tacche") design that they introduced in their WWII military watches, to achieve increased water resistance.
Fast forward to 1954, the next step in the evolution of Longines dressy sports watches.
1954 ad courtesy of Longines
The first line of Longines watches was born: the Longines Conquest. Retaining the screw down back and waterproof case design, but updating the dial, lugs, movement (automatic), materials and overall aesthetics, the Conquest was one of the most beautifully designed watches (in my opinion). It came in steel, two tone or gold and with either black or (white) champagne dials, with leather strap or steel bracelet, like this wonderful example here:
Photo by vintagelongines on Instagram
Vintage specimens of this stunning piece can be found online for reasonably affordable prices (for now) in various conditions. Longines released a re-issue recently that retains not only the design, but also the size (their heritage re-issues are some of the best and most faithful out there, in my view). Of course, at the heart of the re-issues beats a L.633 caliber, which is "just" an ETA 2824, instead of the in-house 19AS movements that typically graced the original models.
Fast forward again, and the current sports version (not the re-issue) of the Conquest looks but little like its predecessors. What it has retained, however, is its versatility, durability and spirit of the original. The case of the 39mm conquest is identical to the Hydroconquest, but without diver's bezel. This means you get all the shock protection and 300m WR of a diver but in a more neutral package that could, in this day and age, do dressy in most situations as well. It is the most legible dial I have ever had, with the rhodium plated hands reflecting even the lowest amount of light, so that even if it wouldn't have had lume, it would have probably been legible in most situations.
Would Longines have made this watch if it hadn't become part of the Swatch Group? Probably not, but I think the question should rather be, would Longines have still made watches at all if it hadn't become part of Mr. Hayek's cartel?
The watch is not really photogenic, it appears much more plump than it really is. Moreover, its mirror polished surfaces make the task of capturing this cool time piece even harder.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you're looking for a do-everything watch in the spirit of the Explorers (Rolex or otherwise) that doesn't require an arm nor a leg to acquire (well, perhaps at least one wrist) and is ready to go on any sort of adventure with you - even if that adventure is your desk, the Longines Conquest automatic 39mm may just be the ticket. It sure is mine, and while I will be on the lookout to pick up an original 1950s Conquest some day, this modern descendant will not leave my collection any time soon.
If you came this far, thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the story.
More about the arctic expedition watches here and here
P.S. found this picture of Paul-Emile Victor from 1990, it appears he's wearing a datejust here (if I'm not mistaken):
Photo by Anne de Henning